The hugely spicy 2002 Meursault Rougeots is a fat, medium-bodied wine that retains outstanding purity, focus, freshness, and detail. Loads of pulp-laden pears as well as apples are intermingled with smoky, spicy oak in this boldly flavored effort. Drink it over the next 9 years. Note: Jean-Francois Coche labels five different wines as “Meursault,” the Vireuils-Dessous, Vireuils-Dessus, La Barre, Narvaux, and from an as-yet-unnamed parcel (it may be called “Chaumes”) on the top of the Meursault hill that belongs to his son Raphael. His US importer, Kermit Lynch, generally purchases only the Meursault from the Narvaux vineyard, but there is no way of knowing which “Meursault” is being purchased from the gray market. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524