Lopez de Heredia is known for classic, lightweight Riojas, and this wine fits that bill. The color is rusty, the nose raisiny and sherried. Plenty of leather and puckery acidity keep it lively, but there isn’t much fruit beyond pie cherry and rhubarb. Very stylistic and not for everyone, but if you like the Old-World mode, here it is, front and center.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 86