Wild flowers, fresh herbs and tobacco aromas add a classic touch to the bouquet, and in the mouth it’s alert, with juicy acidity propping up raspberry fruit and oak-based vanilla. Some might call it tangy but there’s body and depth to this unfiltered, natural-yeast wine, which can be drunk now but should probably be held for another decade or so. Best from 2014–2019.——M.S.(11/1/2009)—— 91