The 2003 Brut Le Nombre d'Or Campanae Veteres Vites is a unique wine that employs all of the main varieties grown in Champagne. The Veteres Vites is gorgeous and opulent, clearly showing traces of the very hot year. Soft and seamless on the palate, the wine offers a two-dimensional expression of fruit that quite understandably lacks the verve of more favorable vintages. A round, creamy finish compensates for the slightly unpolished tannins. The 2003 Veteres Vites looks to be a wine best enjoyed sooner rather than later. This cuvee is 25% Fromenteau, 20% Arbanne, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, bottled with 3 grams of dosage. Disgorged in April, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I was deeply impressed with these wines from Aubry. To be sure, these are not the most immediate Champagnes readers will come across; rather they require a measure of time and patience. For those who are ready to experience something new and different, an array of compelling Champagnes awaits. Aubry farms 17 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards in Jouy, Pargny and Villedomange. The estate’s Sable series are wines made in the lower-atmosphere style and that feature Fromenteau, Petit Meslier and Arbanne, ancient varieties in these parts that today are nearly forgotten. Simply put, this is one of the most impressive ranges I tasted this year, and the wines are highly recommended.A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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