As wine lovers learn, Champagnes are produced from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and/or Pinot Meunier. There are, however, exceptions. Aubry uses 50% Fromenteau (this rarely seen varietal is "probably the ancestor of Pinot Gris" according to the Oxford Companion to Wine) and the balance Petit Meslier and Arbanne (according to Gelin, only a combined 7.5 acres of these extremely rare varietals exist in the world, all in Champagne) to fashion the Le Nombre d'Or Campanae Veteres Vites (Le Nombre d'Or is a French architectural expression for perfection, and the Latin phrase means "the old vines of the countryside"). The 1995 exhibits smoky white fruit aromas, reminiscent of Pinot Gris, and a well-focused, medium-bodied personality. Tangy apples and pears are found in its spicy, expressive character. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300.