Hartford Court’s 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard offers elegant blueberry and raspberry aromas interwoven with hints of pepper and spice. Although medium-bodied, with more intensity, richness, and length than the Hartford Vineyard Zin, it does not possesses as much power and richness as the 2004 or 2003. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards. Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Seascape (96), 2003 Chardonnay Stone Cote (94+), 2003 Chardonnay Three Jacks (96), 2003 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard (91), 2003 Pinot Noir Seascape (90), 2004 Zinfandel Russian River (93), 2004 Zinfandel Dina’s Vineyard (90?), 2004 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard (94), 2004 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard (91), 2004 Zinfandel Highwire Vineyard (91). Tel. (800) 588-0234; Fax (800) 600-5895

Like your Zins high in alcohol and Porty? Try this one, which comes from low-yielding, century-old vines. It will have its fans, but for this taster, it’s hot, dry and raisiny.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 84