Wittmann's to-be-auctioned 2021 Riesling Alte Reben La Borne offers a deep, pure, fresh and very chalky bouquet that intertwines with ripe and concentrated lemon notes; the nose is puristic and almost ascetic but on the other hand also very exciting for exactly the same reasons. On the palate, this is a silky, or better velvety, round, refined and elegant La Borne with intense, lush and charmingly textured fruit structured by fine and silky limestone acidity, fine tannins and a persistent, uplifting salinity. The La Borne is probably the most adored at this stage, but it is rare and (most probably) expensive and most of the readers will never taste it. For those, I'd like to say: Buy the Morstein, because it is extraordinary. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022.