The Wittmann 2011 Riesling Alte Reben La Borne (for more about whose origins in the Morstein consult my review of the inaugural 2009 in Issue 192) delivers chalk, ash, and peach kernel already in the nose, which then go on to render the subtly oily palate impression, here both overtly dense and rather austere. Musky, narcissus-like floral notes add inner-mouth intrigue to a Riesling whose prodigiously persistent finish displays piquant intensity and cut; strongly mineral impressions; and, happily, saliva-engendering salinity. This auctioned bottling ought to be worth following for the better part of a decade.
A new receiving line incorporating a vibrating sorting table is among the latest manifestations of Philipp Wittmann’s continuing drive to render what are already some of the most sought-after wines in Germany steadily better. Any fear that Riesling here might suffer from deficient vivacity or juiciness in 2011 was quickly banished once I began tasting. The last fruit wasn’t picked this year in Morstein until October 17, yet retained a formidable 8.5 grams of acidity, by which point raisined fruit had to be sorted-out.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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