The 1990 Barolo Bricco Rocche is the most fresh and firm of these 1990s, although here, too, I suspect the fruit will fade before the tannins fully soften. The silkiness of Castiglione Falletto is felt in the elegant, finessed tannins, while the warmth of the vintage comes through on the generous, balsamic finish. The 1990 Bricco Rocche requires considerable aearation before its qualities emerge, but when they do the wine is brilliant. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014.
I tasted these 1989s and 1990s during a visit to the winery in November, 2009. I was struck by how fast the 1990s have developed. I am tempted to think those wines were not stored perfectly for their entire lives, as I have tasted far fresher examples in the US. As a group, the 1989s were more satisfying. At the time these wines were made vinification and aging were still traditional in approach.
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