The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Ser Lapo never seems to find its center. Inward and tightly wound, the Ser Lapo reveals an intense, wiry core of plums, wild cherries, menthol, leather, licorice, smoke and French oak that emerge reluctantly over time. The Ser Lapo is made in a decidedly international style but, it doesn’t possess the level of depth and expressiveness of the best wines in this lineup. Both bottles I tasted were clenched and austere, particularly on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. With one exception, I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Fonterutoli, the Mazzei family’s historic Tuscan property. Proprietor Filippo Mazzei and his team led by consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini have done a terrific job with most of these wines. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642