The 1994 Chianti Classico Ser Lapo Riserva reveals an impressive opaque purple color, but it is closed aromatically. On the palate, the wine is hard-textured, tough, lean, and austere - and in need of 1-3 years of cellaring. Toasty new oak dominates the wine's fruit. Currently, this effort lacks charm, and its overall equilibrium and balance are questionable. Readers should give it more bottle age to see if it sheds its tannin and develops more sweetness of fruit and precociousness. Fonterutoli is one of Tuscany's most reliable producers of Chianti and proprietary red wines - the so-called Vino da Tavolas. Five of six wines performed well in my tastings. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900