A touch overripe and indulgent, this Chard needs a little more vibrancy to enliven its heavy character. Mushy peaches, banana and mealy cantaloupe emanate from the bouquet while flavors of buttered popcorn and oaky spice dominate the palate. Try with a heavy cream-based dish to downplay the wine’s own richness.——L.B.(9/1/2010)—— 86