The 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet – from 50 year old vines – certainly reflects Boillot's claim that "this is the best terroir there is for white Burgundy." The floral and musk oil perfume that has characterized this wine in past is almost overwhelmingly heady in the present instance. Decadent lily and narcissus mingle with white peach, quince, pungent green tea, candle wick, sea breeze and chalk dust in a manner that also calls to mind great Vouvray. This hits the palate like an electric shock, setting up a vibratory intensity of mineral, floral, nut oil, and fruit interchange that runs through a matrix so rich in texture it is satiny and almost custardy. The seemingly paradoxical degree to which density and levity, richness and refreshment are combined here is spellbinding. I would anticipate 12-15 years of magnificence for any who are wealthy and lucky enough to latch on to some.
As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it.
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