From vines of 50 or more years of age, the Boillot 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet smells of musk, narcissus, mushrooms, chalk dust, and fresh lemon. This is so penetrating, and high-toned it literally sends shivers up my spine. Citrus, chalk, noble mushrooms and a savor akin to shellfish reduction follow this to a finish of unforgettable length and rarified intensity. I seem to have had less to say about this wine than its predecessors simply for having been in awe of it. Surely a dozen or more years of positive bottle evolution are assured. Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724
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