The 2005 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is an intense, full-bodied wine loaded with dark raspberries, menthol, spices and sweet toasted oak. Although the wine possesses generous depth, the oak tannins overwhelm the wine’s overall balance. This fruit-driven wine offers tons of fruit, but not much more complexity beyond that. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.
My visit with Enrico Scavino and his daughter, Enrica, was one of the highlights of my November trip to Piedmont. In addition to these superb 2005 Barolos, I also sampled all of the 2006s, 2007s and 2008s from barrel and/or tank, which made for an incredible tasting. In recent years Scavino’s wines have taken on additional elements of classicism that I find very appealing. Enrico Scavino has the energy of someone half his age. Scavino has recently concluded the purchase in the Monvigliero vineyard in Verduno which he had previously rented, and will make a new single vineyard Barolo from this site. Further acquisitions are in the works but are not yet finalized. I wish every producer in Piedmont had Scavino’s sheer passion. As for the 2005s, well, they are striking for their aromatics and level of ripeness. Scavino continues to dial back the oak, and the color of these wines is much more typical of Nebbiolo than has been the case in the recent past. The overall level of quality is very close to 2004, although the wines are very different in terms of their personalities.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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