The 2005 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature, a blend of 55% Xarello and 45% Macabeo, aged for 88 months in bottle, might be just going through a difficult phase, and does not say much. You need to pull it to get shy aromas of spices, yeasts and toasty bread intermixed with some notes of apples and fennel. It also feels quite compact in the palate with very small, well-integrated bubbles and a thin, persistent acid spine. Drink now-2017.
Recaredo is a very old Cava house, as they have been grape growers and wine producers since 1924, but they have come to the forefront of the quality leaders recently. They have worked very hard for that, especially when it comes to work in the vineyards and respect for nature and tradition. They only use grapes from their own vineyards in the Alt Penedes zone, which are worked organically and biodynamically (Demeter certified). All grapes are hand-harvested and vinified by them and the wines are aged sur lie with cork stoppers. They are disgorged by hand without resorting to freezing the neck after no less than 30 months in contact with the lees and regular hand turning of the bottles. No liqueur de expedition is added to any of the wines, they are all Brut Nature. All wines are produced from a single vintage. I’m not sure if there is any other sparkling wine producer in the world who works with such strict standards, but what is most impressive is that all that is certified for the wines produced in the last ten years! Congratulations to the Mata family and to winemaker Ton Mata for such achievement. There is a sense of energy and harmony in their wines that is impressive; they are all highly recommended. Prices for the top-bottling can be steep, but the regular Brut Nature is a bargain.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Maspeth, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100, www.madrose.com
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