The 2003 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is made up of 64% Macabeu and 36% Xarel-lo aged on lees for 67 months. The Xarel-lo grapes were fermented in oak and the wine was finished with no dosage. It displays a bit more richness than the preceding wines, perhaps because of the oak treatment. Aromas of mineral, toast, almonds, and white fruits inform the nose of this superb effort. In the glass it is remarkably concentrated, vibrant, and refreshing. Recaredo’s Cavas have demonstrated an ability to evolve, so another 2-3 years of cellaring is likely to provide dividends.
Recaredo Mata Casanovas is on my (very) short list of finest Cava producers in the DO. All of the fruit is sourced from estate vineyards in the Alt Penedes region, is Demeter-certified biodynamic in its farming practices (since 2009), aged in the cellars with natural cork stoppers, bottles are turned by hand in traditional racks, and are disgorged by hand without freezing. The vintage, months of aging, and date of disgorging are shown on all bottles. The Bodega’s stated reference points for their Cavas are Salon, Selosse, and Paul Bara. As an aside, I was shown three older vintages (1996, 1991, and 1984) disgorged in my presence during my visit. They were fully alive and vibrant, developing in the manner of the grandes marques of Champagne. These tasting notes are from my visit to Cava Recaredo in January 2011.
Importer: Neal Rosenthal, The Mad Rose Group, www.madrose.com
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