An outstanding effort is the broodingly backward, dense ruby/purple-colored 2005 Zinfandel Harris-Kratka Vineyard. A tannic blend of 75% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, and 10% Carignan, it exhibits notes of seaweed, garrigue, pepper, kirsch, darker fruits, spice box, and earth. Abundant acidity and tannin suggest another year of bottle age will be beneficial. It should keep for 5-7 years. The ever reliable Kent Rosenblum continues to turn out a portfolio of delicious Zinfandels. Along with Napa’s Biale family and a short list of other North Coast producers, Rosenblum Cellars is as good as it gets when it comes to Zinfandel. Tel. (877) GR78-ZINS

Like all Rosenblum Zins, this is a big, tannic wine, with an enormous explosion of fruit. In this case, though, it’s dry and balanced. The acidity is low, but the flavors, of crushed ripe blackberries and anisette, are delicious. Cries out for rich meats and cheeses. Drink soon.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 88