The Dublere 2006 Volnay Les Pitures – from the small, little-known cru immediately north of d'Angerville's Clos des Ducs – expresses an invigorating and lovely concentration of tart, brown red currant, ginger, and cherry with its pit, with hints of noble mushroom and forest floor beneath. A supple, finely tannic palate permits the generous fruit, spice, fungal, and stonily mineral elements to cavort with both thought- and saliva-provoking savor, lingering with clarity and finesse. Pethel's contract on this parcel allows him the control he needs on yields and practices. For more details on the domaine of North Carolina ex-pat Blair Pethel, please consult my report on his 2006 vintage whites in issue 180. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70; also imported by Pas Mal Selections, New York, NY; tel. (201) 567 2028 and Schneider’s of Capital Hill, Washington, DC tel. (202) 543 9300

This is slightly riper than its '07 counterpart though it too remains high-toned, elegant, pure and stony with really pretty and pure red berry fruit aromas that complement to perfection the round, intense, detailed and focused flavors that exhibit the natural restraint of a fine Pitures and culminates in a finish built on its minerality. This is very Volnay in character and should age well over the medium term.