Made by Riccardo Cotarella, this barrel-fermented Orvieto, made from low yields, reveals good fruit, a vibrant personality, a subtle use of oak, and excellent ripeness and richness. Although not complex, it is refreshing and cleanly made. Readers who are used to somewhat oxidized, stale almond-tasting Orvietos, will find this wine to be a breathe of fresh air. It should drink well for a year.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620