The Chateau de Puligny 2007 Saint-Aubin En Remilly offers a pungent combination of peach, persimmon, iris, and lemon zest in the nose and a correspondingly ripe yet bright and invigorating palate presence. There is a surprising sense of viscosity given this wine's overall lift and refreshment, and smoky, chalky notes add a mineral dimension to the persistent finish. I suspect this already tremendously appealing wine will be even more interesting in another couple of years and worth following for some half dozen. Etienne de Montille – whose entire Chateau de Puligny collection I regrettably did not have time to taste – reports that what botrytis there was in 2007 was located on the exterior rather than (as was the case in 2008) inside the grape clusters, thus making it easier to select-out, and that small losses to hail in certain sites where not accompanied by damage to the fruit or significant retardation of ripening. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040 and Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (with various additional importers) Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29