The 2005 Domaine La Roquette Chateauneuf du Pape has a deep ruby/purple color and a beautiful, sweet nose of ripe Grenache (think kirsch liqueur) along with raspberries, licorice, pepper, and some Provencal spiciness. About 30% stems were used in the making of this wine, and it is both powerful and elegant, with zesty acidity and moderately high tannin. It is an attractive wine that can be drunk early on or cellared for 12-15 years. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons.The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits much more tannin, structure, and a more closed personality than its counterpart in 2006. The wine has a dark ruby/purple-tinged color (darker than the 2006), a rather firm mouthfeel with more animal characteristics, some dark berry fruit, high tannin, medium to full body, and good acidity. This wine needs to be forgotten for 2-3 years and drunk over the following 15. There is no question Daniel Brunier and his brother have been working feverishly to raise the level of quality at Domaine La Roquete. The wines are now being aged 100% in foudre, and the quality has definitely taken a dramatic turn upwards. The brothers have introduced an old vine luxury cuvee, called l’Accent de Roquette, and the estate’s white Chateauneuf du Pape has benefitted from their expertise in vinifying white grapes.Importer: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

A well put-together set of aromatics and fruits, spice and herbs. Shows depth and integration. A sustained, structured finish.