The 2011 Pinot Noir North Slope is delicate, sensual and totally beautiful from the very first taste. Here it is the wine’s silkiness that stands out most. Sweet red berries, flowers and mint all flow through to the finish. This is a decidedly restrained version of the North Slope. Crushed flowers, tobacco and plums add complexity on the finish. My overall impression is that the 2011 will be an early drinker because of its modest structure, especially vis-a-vis the 2010. At the same time, it is impossible to miss the wine’s energy. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017.
I was quite taken with the wines I tasted with proprietor Stephen Hansel earlier this year. In particular, the 2010 Chardonnays have turned out far better than I had expected. A year prior, the wines were heavy and clunky. Today, they are complete and beautifully balanced to a degree that is surprising. According to Hansel, in 2010 the Pinots were less affected by the heat spikes that year than the Chardonnays, echoing a common refrain among growers. As was the case throughout California, 2011 was an exceptionally long and cold growing season. Hansel lost the fruit for the Meadows bottling, a casualty of the October rains. At the risk of sounding repetitive, it is impossible not to realize how exceedingly fairly priced these wines are in today’s market. Stylistically, the Hansel Chardonnays show the richness from stirring of the lees and the use of 40-60% new oak. The Pinots are made from fully destemmed fruit and also tend towards the bolder side of things. Hansel reported that sugars were about a degree lower in 2011, especially for the Chardonnays. Consequently, he gave the Chardonnays a little less new oak than normal, but at the same time increased lees stirring to give the wines a bit more body. Ripeness of the Pinots was more consistent across the two vintages.
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