From cool-climate soils, the 2007 Pinot Noir North Slope (Dijon clone 115 exclusively) is another admirable Pinot Noir. Notes of root vegetables, underbrush, clove, cinnamon, and oodles of black cherry and black currant fruit are present in this dark ruby/purple-tinged wine. Good acidity, full-bodied power, and plenty of concentration and depth characterize this very promising Pinot, which should evolve for at least a decade. (Not yet released) This is a source for very fine Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs at some of the most realistic prices to be found in Northern California. Like several producers in the Russian River, the 2006s out of bottle from Walter Hansel Winery seem to be evolving quickly and, by-and-large, are slightly less impressive than they were at the beginning of their lives. Nevertheless, the good producers have achieved noteworthy success in this vintage, and certainly Stephen Hansel should be proud of what he’s been able to accomplish in that vintage. Moreover, the 2007s look to be a return to the brilliant quality of the wines produced here in 2005 and 2004. Tasting through barrel samples of all the 2007 Pinot Noirs, this looks to be a superb vintage for Stephen Hansel. Yields were very small, averaging about 1.5 tons of fruit per acre, so these wines reflect a level of concentration, but with the overt fragrance and good acidity that the cool growing season provided. Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-1310