The 2009 Pinot Noir North Slope is one of the firmer wines in this lineup. Sweet black cherries, tar, licorice, mint and smoke are some of the nuances that inform this virile, powerful Pinot. The North Slope boasts impressive concentration and richness in a round, enveloping style that stands slightly apart from the rest of the wines in this lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is an excellent set of wines from Steven Hansel. The Chardonnays are fermented and aged in barrels for a total of 10 months with lees stirring once a week for the first 8 weeks. Hansel favors Francois Freres and Seguin Moreau barrels, typically 50% new for the Chardonnays. The Pinots are made with fully destemmed fruit and aged in Seguin Moreau barrels, 70% new. Like many growers, Hansel was affected by late season rains in 2010. The estate was very aggressive with leaf pulling, which then created challenges, especially for the Chardonnays, when the heat spikes arrived. The 2010s have lower alcohol and higher acidities than the 2009s, but they also at times have a bit of heaviness from the very low yields of the year. The Pinots seem less affected by the weather in 2010. Vintage 2009 was much more regular, and that comes through in the consistency of both the Chardonnays and the Pinots. Tel. (707) 525-3614; www.walterhanselwinery.com