One of the standouts in this range, the 2010 Meursault Les Vireuils (Dessus) illustrates the tension typical of the upper part of the vineyard. Cool, mineral notes dominate at first in this textured, delineated Meursault villages. Energetic and vibrant, the Vireuils could use another year in bottle to come together fully, but is striking, even today. Flowers and flint resonate on the pointed, super-classic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.
Benjamin Leroux is probably best known to readers for his superb work at Comte Armand, but the wines Leroux crafts under his own micro-negociant label are equally worthy of attention. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Leroux on our website for more on his views on current vintages. In addition to the wines listed here, I also tasted just about all the 2011 whites. Those wines are shaping up beautifully and in some cases will rival or perhaps even surpass the 2010s for their balance. If the 2010s have a weakness here, it is that they are at times a bit on the heavy side.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Fine Vines, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, Cavatappi, Washington; tel. (206) 282-5226, Veritas Imports, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800, Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763
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