The 2004 Late Bottled Vintage Port is an old-vines field blend aged in used Portuguese 9,000-liter tanks. It was bottled in December 2008. Just lovely, this is a powerful and concentrated LBV that seemed a touch decadent on opening and most certainly downright youthful at age 10 (when tasted). It makes the prime-time, youthful 1997 also in this vertical seem old. (It's not!) I liked them about equally, but for completely different reasons. With some tannins on the back end, this finishes with big bursts of flavor. As it airs, it shows more and more power, particularly by Day 3, becoming rather intense as its structure takes over. As so often happens with fine Port–yes, that includes LBVs–this kept getting more impressive over several days. In this vertical, it is certainly where the modern era begins--it is completely fresh, young, lively and quite delicious. It wouldn't hurt to give this a couple of more years to air out. It's a sleeper in this vertical.
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