The 2002 Late Bottled Vintage Port is an old-vines field blend aged in used Portuguese 9,000-liter tanks. It was bottled in March 2007. The 2002s are perhaps the worst vintage I've seen since I began covering Portugal. It's not the only 2002 presented here, but why was an LBV bottled? For one thing, said Crasto's Miguel Roquette to me, the fruit that normally goes into Crasto's high-end specialty bottlings of pricey table wines (Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte) was used for this. Well, it has its moments. I'd be well willing to drink it, but it is hardly a star of the vertical. Starting with the funkiest and oldest nose of the group presented, it seems far older than its vintage date by smell, the only wine in this long vertical that is not really fresh. Now, it is far better on the palate than the nose, happily, still showing some fruit and a complex medley of flavors on the sweet, juicy finish–but also some oxidation. The tannins are mild, but still present. Overall, not bad and it has its charms, but not something to rush out and find, either. If, on the other hand you're holding it, drinking it up is a good idea especially considering that not everything will have had storage as good as this did. It may hold awhile, but it is not getting any better.

This was bottled, unfiltered, in 2007, allowing aging in the bottle. It is structured, edging towards firm, the full stalky berry flavors still with fresh acidity despite the sweetness.——R.V.(3/1/2010)—— 87