The 2007 Costera is the finest of these entry-level bottlings. A massive, generous wine, it literally bursts onto the palate with waves of game, earthiness, mint, spices, herbs and bacon fat notes that swirl around a core of ripe, dark fruit. There is outstanding harmony and balance in the glass, especially at this price point. Costera is 90% Cannonau, 5% Carignano and 5% Bovale Sardo, (all native varieties), that spent roughly 6-8 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.This is a superb set of value-priced wines from Argiolas, one of Sardinia’s historic properties. I am told that at age 102 Antonio Argiolas still pays a daily visit to the property.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Costera is a Cannonau-based wine (with some Carignano and Bovale) that sees a very light passing in wood. The result is a fruit-driven wine with a pinch of exotic spice and soft tannins. The real protagonist here, however, are the jammy, ripe berry notes.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 87