The 1997 Costera, made from what is believed to be the local clone of Grenache, offers a dark ruby color, and a fragrant berry, peppery, kirsch-scented bouquet. Relatively full-bodied, and loaded with ripe, jammy fruit, this is a mouth-filling wine with no hard edges. Readers should think of it as Sardinia's answer to a Cotes du Rhone. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620