The 1994 Costera (100% Cannonau) is an intriguing wine. It offers up aromas of animal fur, earth, kirsch, tar, and sweet black-cherry fruit. There is a touch of over-ripeness, a medium to full-bodied, lush palate, and a big, spicy, peppery, alcoholic finish. This is a gutsy wine to drink with full-flavored dishes over the next 3-4 years. Sardinia is receiving more attention from the wine community as the result of efforts such as these from the Argiolas winery, which first bottled wines in 1989. While they make a decent, albeit bland white wine, the real prizes are the reds, which are made from both the indigenous varietal of Sardinia, Monica, and from the Cannonau grape, which is believed to be the Sardinian clone of Grenache.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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