The 2009 Lanzaga possesses outstanding clarity on the nose with mineral-rich red currant and Morello aromas that exude Burgundy-like purity. The bouquet is underpinned by a very focused, animated bouquet with a subtle herbaceous tincture that evolves with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, taut tannins lending it a rigid backbone. There is a slight chalkiness to the texture and it leads to a composed, stony, laconic finish that is very precise. Drink now-2018.
As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguez’s minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundy’s more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a “premier cru” in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego.
Importer: Michael Quintus, Vintus Importers, Pleasantville, NY; www.vintuswines.com
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