Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

澤巴赫酒莊天堂園雷司令冰白葡萄酒

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Tasted before bottling, Selbach-Oster’s “one-star” 2010 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein represents a later picking from the same parcel as the “regular” Himmelreich Eiswein. If essaying that wine was audacious, I suppose leaving fruit behind for later was that much more so. But whereas the audacity of the earlier picking is aptly reflected in the raucous intensity and ungrounded electricity it displays as wine, this second Eiswein is more soundly impressive. Its fermentation had just been arrested and the wine bottled several days before I tasted it in mid-September. Imagine the characteristics of lemon meringue pie glazed with apricot preserves ... then raise that impression to the second power. Now add salt, stone, spice, and pungent herbs and zest as seemingly seen through a clear torrent of frigid, brightly citric fruit. The juxtaposition of custard-like density with flashes of acidity here is uncanny and the high-voltage finish practically unremitting. This show could be worth sticking around for, though I would keep track of the exits. “From the look of the grapes in early October,” relates Johannes Selbach, “it seemed we would have green, hard-edged wines this year. But the saving grace” – that three-word description spoken in English, incidentally – “was that if you waited, the weather cooperated just long enough, and eventually real ripeness and interesting aromas developed. At that point, we picked in a hurry, finishing in early November.” Reacting to the high-acid nature of 2010 material – much of it double-salt de-acidified as must – Selbach finished nearly all of his wines with significant residual sugar, and it was literally half by accident that any of these ended up with a profile that could be called “Kabinett.” Otherwise, this is a vintage dominated by sweet Spatlese and Auslese to an extent that in its relative stylistic homogeneity compels me to recollect my earliest experiences with this estate and the dominance in certain mid-’1980s vintages of off-dry Kabinett and Q.b.A.! The high ripeness and botrytized complexity that characterize this collection is reflected in the fact that the estate’s three by now familiar and no longer Pradikat-designated, block-picked parcel bottlings were served me after I had tasted the wines labeled “Auslese,” and there was not the least awkwardness to the transition (although for now this vintage looks to have rewarded selection at least marginally over block picking). “The two most unusual botrytis vintages of my career,” remarks Selbach, “have been 2006 and now 2010. But whereas the 2006s were opulent, 2010 delivered sleek, thoroughbred racehorses built for the long haul.” Hang on for a quite possibly wild ride, then, because as impressive as these wines are, just as Selbach intimated, they are highly unusual and their future track record correspondingly inscrutable. If 2009 was clearly a year for Schlossberg to shine, 2010 is a year of more predictable favoritism toward Zeltinger Sonnenuhr.Importers: There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Given the travails of the vintage and the ruthlessness with which botrytis had to be removed to keep grapes hanging reasonably healthy until the first deep frost of December, I asked Johannes Selbach why he bothered to attempt a 2010 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein. His answer was unambiguous, even if I must resort to neologism to translate it: “ ‘sportly’ competitiveness.” Singed grilled pineapple and lemon rind tweak the nose, then practically electrocute the palate with their bright impact, leaving behind charred detritus and a shivering impression of citricity. There is a candied green apple sense of bifurcation about this audacious exercise in winter sport. It makes a strong impression, whether or not you’re impressed. Intriguingly, the actual acidity here is no higher than in several of this collection’s non-Eis wines, but the effect is both strikingly bracing and metaphorically chilly. Socking some away represents, I suspect, even more of a risk than is usual for its genre and I won’t try to prognosticate. “From the look of the grapes in early October,” relates Johannes Selbach, “it seemed we would have green, hard-edged wines this year. But the saving grace” – that three-word description spoken in English, incidentally – “was that if you waited, the weather cooperated just long enough, and eventually real ripeness and interesting aromas developed. At that point, we picked in a hurry, finishing in early November.” Reacting to the high-acid nature of 2010 material – much of it double-salt de-acidified as must – Selbach finished nearly all of his wines with significant residual sugar, and it was literally half by accident that any of these ended up with a profile that could be called “Kabinett.” Otherwise, this is a vintage dominated by sweet Spatlese and Auslese to an extent that in its relative stylistic homogeneity compels me to recollect my earliest experiences with this estate and the dominance in certain mid-’1980s vintages of off-dry Kabinett and Q.b.A.! The high ripeness and botrytized complexity that characterize this collection is reflected in the fact that the estate’s three by now familiar and no longer Pradikat-designated, block-picked parcel bottlings were served me after I had tasted the wines labeled “Auslese,” and there was not the least awkwardness to the transition (although for now this vintage looks to have rewarded selection at least marginally over block picking). “The two most unusual botrytis vintages of my career,” remarks Selbach, “have been 2006 and now 2010. But whereas the 2006s were opulent, 2010 delivered sleek, thoroughbred racehorses built for the long haul.” Hang on for a quite possibly wild ride, then, because as impressive as these wines are, just as Selbach intimated, they are highly unusual and their future track record correspondingly inscrutable. If 2009 was clearly a year for Schlossberg to shine, 2010 is a year of more predictable favoritism toward Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Importers: There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300