Each year I taste this wine, I gain a greater understanding of its distinct style and personality. The 2017 Alto Adige Müller Thurgau Feldmarschall Von Fenner is one of those wines that wins you over slowly, very slowly. In the past, I have been aware of the reductive winemaking approach, but this hot vintage expression is raring to go from the minute the wine pours into the glass. Dried lemon peel, green melon and crushed almond all come into view. The wine makes a sturdy impression in terms of mouthfeel with ample and round contours. Serve it with a wild herb risotto. Vines come from a site located a whopping 1,000 meters above sea level and the farming challenges mean that two to four passes are made before harvest is complete. Some 13,000 bottles were made.
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