The 2012 Montrachet Grand Cru is raised in the said two-year-old barrel as he feels a new one would be excessive. It has a very pretty nose, understated but very precise, preferring to leave the fireworks to the showier Chevalier-Montrachet. The palate is well-balanced, rounded in the mouth with pretty apricot and orange zest notes laced with minerals as it dovetails into a long candied finish. Very seductive, although the Chevalier has all the excitement! A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com