The current releases from Conterno include the fabulous 1985 Barolo Cascina Francia Serralunga. It possesses the classic Nebbiolo nose of roses and tar, as well as masses of rich red and black fruits. Unctuous and intense, with spectacular fruit, it offers great fragrance and massive body to go along with its high extract and huge tannin.
Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point.
Because Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos, I have reviewed his current and upcoming releases, including his 1987 and 1985 luxury cuvees of Barolo called Monfortino. I should note that Conterno's 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal.
Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL.
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