As a professor of philosophy, Luigi Castaldi Madonna undoubtedly takes the long view of things, but the decision to engage the services of consulting oenologist Lorenzo Landi changed his wines – very much for the better – in a big hurry. The new attention to detail and commitment to quality are already felt in the 2002 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Malandrino, fruit of a very difficult vintage, but entirely successful in the freshness and purity of its plum fruit and light notes of cedar and cloves and its surprisingly ample body despite the autumn rains. Drink: 2006-2010. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200