Destined for July bottling, Alzingers’ 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal already anticipates in its aromas of Szechuan pepper, Latakia tobacco, and pungent green herbs the typical smokiness and bite associated with its site, here ravishingly wreathed in hyacinth and iris. Fresh lime, yellow plum, and white peach inform a lusciously-expansive, satin-textured palate. Sheer extract, along with near-14% alcohol make for a delectable suggestion of sweetness, even though this harbors less than three grams of residual sugar. The dynamic, tactilely-detectable interaction of fruit, herb, and peppery mineral notes is spell-binding as well as exhilarating. Look for(ward to) the better part of two decades’ continued excitement. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300