Weingut Leo Alzinger Steinertal Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Alzinger’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal smells of melon, green bean, and smoky tobacco, black tea, and Szechuan pepper, all of which figure on a luscious, refreshing, let darkly-hued palate. The depth of flavors beneath the silken, polished surface of this wine is riveting, and the finish is possessed of what I can only describe as an ore-like depth of minerality along with peppery, zesty, and smoky pungency. This, too, should merit a decade or more of cellaring. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

There’s power in this concentrated wine. The texture is rich, velvet, touched by pepper, ripe acidity and pear skins. Along with its creamy, rounded character, the wine has the bite of tight spice and a dry, firm core.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 91