Alzinger’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal positively sizzles, not just in its white and Sichuan pepper pungency, but in its assertive overall personality. Instead of the easy generosity of fruit that characterizes the other Gruner Veltliner in this year’s collection, here we have an ultra concentrate that demands utmost concentration. Almost Gewurztraminer-like in its aromatic intensity of mint, lychee, sweet floral essences, and pepper, this displays Riesling-like clarity and sense of suffusion with ineffable mineral or crushed stone essences. Cracked pepper, brown spices, grapefruit zest and bitter herbs as well as low-toned beet root all add to the head-spinning whirl of complexity on display here. Neither the finish of this wine nor its maturation in bottle will let you down; it will just keep growing. I would not worry about this fading for at least fifteen years.The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
