A brightly citric yet restrained, metaphorically cool personality characterizes the Long-Depaquit 2008 Chablis Vaudesir, whose chalky, alkaline, saline, and nettle-like notes accent lemon, grapefruit, and tart plum on a firm but refreshing palate. This long, laid-back wine will hopefully become a bit more winsome with time in bottle, and ought to hold well for at least 6-8 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200