The Long-Depaquit 2007 Chablis Vaudesir smells of fresh lemon, peaches, and peony, along with salt-spray, almost brackish, sweaty intimations of mineral pungency that emerge to prominence on the palate. There is an attractively sweet expression of underlying ripeness of fruit as well as promising textural richness, even though in flavor terms, this is the wine of its collection most obviously influenced by its time in barrel. I'd want to revisit this - with high hopes - after it's had a couple of years in bottle before engaging in prognostication.Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

A bold, rich wine with yellow fruits, toast and spice. At the same time, there is a crisp, tight edge of acidity and minerality that gives a sense of the cool character of the chalk soil of Chablis. A fine wine, lively, ripe, but totally fresh. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 92