Still slightly gassy prior to its filtration, the 2006 Chablis Vaudesir smells alluringly of ripe white peach and peonies, with hints of white pepper that follow it onto a creamy yet refreshing palate. Mineral nuances shimmer through the long finish, together with a deep, meaty savor. This is a candidate for revealing some of the really mysterious fascination of Chablis over the next 5-7 years, but my inexperience with Long-Depaquit wines prior to bottling leads me to hedge my bets slightly. The floral, savory-mineral 2005 was similarly impressive. The Long-Depaquit estate has been owned by the Bichot family of Beaune negociants for more than three decades, and with the re-emergence of that house as a quality force, one hopes that more attention will be paid to some of the most distinctive and age-worthy wines from one of the largest estates (including 1/6 of the grand cru acreage) in Chablis. Director Matthieu Mangenot and his team harvested in only 12 days.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Big, fruity ripe wine that also keeps the flinty, mineral nature of fine Chablis. The texture is creamy, with wood over peaches and apricots. But the acidity cuts through this rounded fruit like a sharp knife, giving shape and preserving the true freshness of the wine.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 93