One of my favorite producers, Mongeard-Mugneret has rebounded strongly in 1991 with far superior wines than those he made in 1989 and 1990. Why? Not only did nature keep yields under 30 hectoliters per hectare (less than 2 tons per acre), but in 1991 Mongeard's son persuaded his father to return to the traditional method of bottling, meaning, no fining or filtration. The results are wines with more expansive, rich mid-palates and that enticing, seductive, sweet burgundy perfume that has not been obliterated by excessive fining or filtration.
The two premier crus, Vosne-Romanee-Les Orveaux and Nuits St.-Georges-Les Boudots, may well merit outstanding ratings with another six months of bottle age. Both possess deep, saturated ruby colors, sweet, perfumed bouquets, and opulent, voluptuously rich, medium to full-bodied flavors. The Vosne-Romanee-Les Orveaux offers more cassis fruit in its concentrated, silky style. It has beautiful balance. It can be consumed now or over the next decade.
Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.
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