The 2009 Chardonnay Cuvee Alyce is a gorgeous, layered wine that impresses for its nuance and detail. Ripe apricots, flowers, lemon and sweet spices are some of the many aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass, but ultimately the Cuvee Alyce is most remarkable for its textural elegance and silkiness. The Cuvee Alyce is a single block selection from a parcel planted with Hyde and Hudson Wente selections and clone 95. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.
This is an excellent set of wines from Steven Hansel. The Chardonnays are fermented and aged in barrels for a total of 10 months with lees stirring once a week for the first 8 weeks. Hansel favors Francois Freres and Seguin Moreau barrels, typically 50% new for the Chardonnays. The Pinots are made with fully destemmed fruit and aged in Seguin Moreau barrels, 70% new. Like many growers, Hansel was affected by late season rains in 2010. The estate was very aggressive with leaf pulling, which then created challenges, especially for the Chardonnays, when the heat spikes arrived. The 2010s have lower alcohol and higher acidities than the 2009s, but they also at times have a bit of heaviness from the very low yields of the year. The Pinots seem less affected by the weather in 2010. Vintage 2009 was much more regular, and that comes through in the consistency of both the Chardonnays and the Pinots.
Tel. (707) 525-3614; www.walterhanselwinery.com