One of the finest California Chardonnays I have tasted over recent years is the 2001 Chardonnay HFV Cuvee Alyce (261 cases), a selection of the finest barrels. Revealing Grand Marnier liqueur-like characteristics of oranges, honeysuckle, and subtle oak in a full-bodied, dense, concentrated, voluminous style, it is surprisingly light on its feet. Gorgeous integration of wood, enough acidity to provide definition, and a spectacularly long finish result in a riveting example of Chardonnay that combines the best of California’s ripeness with the nuances and structure found in a French grand cru white Burgundy. It should drink well for 3-4 years, possibly longer. For a winery founded only in 1996 (situated down the road from Dehlinger and Kistler), this estate is on fire, producing Burgundian-styled offerings that are the products of natural yeast fermentations, gentle handling in the cellars, with the Pinot Noirs kept on their lees, and no fining or filtration at bottling. If readers have not yet tasted the wines of Walter Hansel, they are missing some stunning wines. All of the cuvees enjoy 45-65 percent new oak. Tel. (707) 525-3614; Fax (707) 528-2415