Pungent cinnamon and ginger spice on the nose of Croix's Beaune Pertuisots – from a little-known site north of Vignes Franches, and here planted with 20-35 year old vines – remind me a bit of Volnay Clos des Chenes. Exuberant fresh, ripe cherry mingles with the spices and saline and chalky mineral notes on a silken palate, finishing long on refreshment and minerality, with great finesse. This should continue to excite for at least 6-8 years. The more structured 2005, incidentally – Croix's first vintage – has turned out superbly as well.
In late 2004, David Croix – winemaker of Camille-Giroud (about whose wines, consult my separate report in this issue as well as in issue 170) – was able with outside investors to purchase the long-somnolent but well-endowed Domaine Duchet. Veteran Burgundy lovers may recall the widespread availability of Duchet wines – often from mature vintages – that where shipped stateside during the 1980s. The wines of his second vintage as Domaine des Croix – not all of which I had chance to taste, and none before their summer, 2008 bottling – speak to both his talents and the estate's quality of acreage and vines. What's more, they promise to offer rare examples of excellent value in Burgundy crus. And Croix's Corton Charlemagne – on which I'll publish notes shortly – is quite exciting.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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