The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers has a taut, mineral-driven bouquet with touches of fresh pear and apple-blossom emerging with aeration. It shows the same vigor as the Clos Saint Jean. The palate has a touch of viscosity on the entry with light honeyed notes combining with candied orange peel and bitter lemon. There is good tension here while the vibrant finish is persistent, more so than the Clos Saint-Jean. This is a satisfactory Chassagne-Montrachet though one that will not win any medals.
As an admirer of Michel Niellon wines, especially after a divine Chevalier-Montrachet 1986 earlier this year, it is with heavy heart that I have to report that this appears to be one producer unbalanced and compromised by the inclemency of 2012. Hail severely damaged several of their prime vineyards. Batard-Montrachet was reduced down to a nub, while propitious premier crus the calibre of “Chenevottes” was akin to a child being pushed off their bicycle. In Burgundy, I am afraid there are no stabilizers. Still, on September 19 they harvested what they could and bottled everything, including their Chevalier-Montrachet, at the beginning of September. Michel’s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and grandson Mathieu took me through these wines, which seemed to lack the vigor and precision that I found elsewhere and within the domaine’s own wines in previous vintages. I am sure they will be back on form next year.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600
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