The 1996 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers is satisfying both the intellect and hedonistic senses. It has expressive floral, mineral, quince and honeyed aromas. This oily-textured and incredibly powerful wine devours the taster with its liveliness, complexity, and superb depth. Stones, flint, tangy berries, Earl Grey tea, orange peels and exciting touches of oak spice are found in the wine's full-bodied and highly-focused character. Wow! Anticipated maturity: 2001-2010.
This wine was bottled early - in August. Niellon is reluctant to pass judgement on a vintage until the wine has been in the bottle for several years. However, he commented that the 1996s are "very lively without being disagreeable", and are similar to his '93s, "but with fruit and more body." Malos were slow to start (a story heard throughout the Cote), and lasted an abnormally long time.
With the exception of my visit to Domaine Coche-Dury, I cannot recall having ever tasted such an extraordinary line-up of young white Burgundies. I left Niellon's cellar yearning for more.
Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
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