The 2005 Barolo Vigna del Gris is especially beautiful in this vintage, particularly in its well-delineated bouquet, which is striking. Dried roses, plums, mint and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from this elegant and restrained Barolo. The wine will benefit from another year or two in bottle to soften the tannins. This small-scaled Vigna del Gris is a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Conterno-Fantino. My November visit coincided with the first of several heavy snowfalls the region experienced during the winter of 2008/2009. Navigating the steep hills of Monforte and environs was oddly calming as there was no one on the roads. As for the wines, they were magnificent. Conterno-Fantino fans have much to look forward to as the estate’s 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos all appeared very promising when I tasted them from barrel. In the meantime, these fine 2005s are among the most gorgeous and well-balanced wines I encountered. Not much has changed here in terms of vinification. The 2005s were vinified in rotary fermenters and aged in 100% new French oak barrels from coopers Taransaud, Boutes and Quintessence. Be that as it may, the wines seem increasingly elegant and refined. Conterno-Fantino remains one of my favorite Piedmont producers and is to be commended for the consistently high quality it delivers across its entire range.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Elegant and streamlined in the mouth, this expression from the Vigna del Gris vineyard shows many little aromas of wild berry, bramble, plum, licorice and leather that together form a comprehensive and intense whole. There’s a touch of mature strawberry as well and the wine shows the astringent tannins of a wine that will age. Drink after 2018.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 89